The pop bumpers were cleaned and reassembled in the game.

The coin door were very hard to open/close, somebody seems to have kicked on it at some point.
After correction the coin door works fine again.

There were no lock either, so i put a new one in.
Looks a bit better than that hole… 🙂

I tested the game a bit, and had to replace the left flipper button.
It felt like there were some bubbly tape on it, but it turned out that the button has been burned with a lighter..?

I also took the shooter rod out and cleaned it.

I playtested a couple of games every morning for two days, and then there were a problem with the top right display.. 🙂
The lower digit was suddenly missing.
I changed the IC on that display board and repinned the connector and the problem were solved.

Now all that is left is to play the game a couple of times every morning for a couple of days to see if any other problems show up.

After that it can be returned to its owner.

The power supply board were next.
Most connectors were soldered directly to the pins on the board.
One of the three rectifiers were previously moved to the backbox with wires.
And one of the rectifiers on the board were broken, so i decided to replace them all.

All fuses were replaced with correct values.
(As always several fuses were way to big…)

All the connectors has now been replaced, and the wires are repinned.
(The rectifiers and heatsink are not yet replaced in the picture.)

A few before and after pictures is also in this post.

MPU-board had acid damage as they usually have.
A bit of cleaning together with vinegar hopefully prolongs the boards life.
There were many chips on the board that was bad and had to be replaced before it booted again. (CPU/PIA/5101/6810)
A new battery holder were placed in the backbox.
Reflowed the connectors.

All plastics were cleaned. (And the playfield.)

All bulbs are replaced with #47s, and all of the rubbers are now replaced.

The fuse holder under the playfield was broken and replaced together with a new fuse.

Capacitors were replaced on the sound board, and U11 were socketed and replaced with a new 86L93.
Reflowed the connectors.
(The sound board was making no sound at all before, but now it is up and running again.)

A few switches on the playfield were showing as stuck in the self test, and required new diodes and capacitors to get them going again.

The solenoid board required another chip to be replaced before all coils were functioning again.

The lamp driver board also required a new chip and a new transistor before all lamps worked as they should.

Two displays were dead.
Reflowing all of the displays pins and replacing the usual resistors that often goes bad made all the displays working fine again.

Getting close now… 🙂

Next are the pop bumpers..

Solenoid board ready for testing.
IC in U4 (CA3081) were dead, and had to be replaced.
(I took a used one from one of my spare solenoid boards and mounted it in a socket.)

Capacitor replacement : Done
Transistor checks : Done
Reflowing connectors : Done
Voltage checks including HV-section : Done
Future proofing grounds : Done

I got this Bally Harlem Globetrotters pinball machine in for repair.

The owner had it for at least 10 years, and it was not working when he got it.
(Only G.I. worked when powering up.)

Before first start up, i will need to do a couple of things as usual :

1, Power supply (Check fuse ratings, connectors, reflowing connectors, voltages.)

2, Solenoid board. (Capacitor replacement, transistor checks, reflowing connectors, voltage checks including HV-section, and future proofing the grounds.)

3, MPU board. (Acid damage repair, reflowing connectors, testing on the workbench.

4, Visual check of the underside of the playfield. (Coils mostly, including checking for shorted ones, but also if there are something missing or things that seems broken.)